DISCOVER the magical shire of Diamantina. Visit Birdsville - an outback town which has become one of Australia’s icons. See Bedourie, an oasis in the desert. And drive through Betoota, a lonely little ghost town that only comes alive twice a year.

In the 1880s, Bedourie was a major water and rest stop for drovers and cattle moving from the Northern Territory and northwest Queensland into South Australia to the southern sales. Cobb and Co coaches serviced the town. The Royal Hotel was first licensed in those early years and has been open for business ever since. The hotel building has been largely untouched, except for the replacement of the original thatched roof. Today, Bedourie is the administrative centre of the Diamantina Shire and has much to offer visitors. A particular favourite is the 22-person therapeutic spa with the warm, fresh water coming directly from an artesian bore.

Soak up the historic atmosphere of Bedourie with a visit to the recently restored Mud Hut, once home to the hotelier’s family. The famous Bedourie campoven, invented in the droving camps of a bygone era, can still be purchased in town. In contrast to the history, the modern Simpson Desert Oasis Motel, en suite caravan park and bar offer visitors every convenience.

Each year, large numbers of sport-loving visitors are drawn to ­Bedourie’s events, including its annual race meeting, gymkhana, campdraft, rodeo and all the fun of camel races. But as well as the town’s sporting events, its history and artesian spa, make the time to discover the unique beauty of this area. Just a day’s drive from Bedourie is the fabulous Diamantina National Park, well known for its fishing (Hunters Gorge), birds, wildlife and scenery. Red-capped weathered ranges, vast open golden grassy plains, deep green coolibah-lined river channels and meandering waterholes make this park unique.

To fully enjoy the beauty of this park, it’s best to camp there for at least one night. Try fishing, birdwatching and visit historical sites such as Mayne Hotel. This is a remote national park, so before setting off, be sure you have sufficient fuel, food and water.

Diamantina Shire’s most famous town is Birdsville, situated on the edge of the Simpson Desert 14km north of the South Australian border and home to Aussie icons like the famous Birdsville Track and Birdsville Hotel.

The hotel is a landmark of the outback. From the verandah, you can see the Simpson Desert dunes. The building itself dates back to 1884 and was constructed from sandstone quarried from a site 16km from the town.

Birdsville is a town full of surprises, from Wolfgang Johns’ Blue Poles Art Gallery and son Karsten’s Big Red Cafe which serves Asian meals by the campfire, to the John Menzies Working Museum. You’ll find it a fascinating mixture. There’s even a historic cemetery which is mute testimony to the outback’s harsh past.

Stay over at the Birdsville Caravan Park, which has nine well appointed budget rooms plus sites for those bringing their own vans. The park consists of 30 acres, part of which is a billabong which is a tributary of the Diamantina River.

During the season, there’s a sausage sizzle once a week. Every other night throughout the week they have a “happy hour” which is actually not a drinking session but a chance for guests to gather around to learn a bit about the area from a local. Get the most from your visit and book a town tour. ­Enjoy an espresso at the Billabong Cafe, which is open every day.

The Birdsville Caravan Park is operated by Outback Parks, which also has the Channel Country Caravan Park in Quilpie. If you’re heading towards Quilpie after Birdsville, make sure you enquire about the mates’ rates you can get by staying at the Quilpie park.

Described as the “Melbourne Cup of the Outback”, the annual Birdsville Races are held on the first weekend of September each year. The town’s resident population of just over 100 swells to around 6,000 as visitors fly (197 planes were parked outside the Birdsville Hotel and along the airstrip in 2003), take a coach tour, drive or ride a motorbike to the must see event.

The most famous landmark in this part of the world is Big Red, recognised as the challenge of a lifetime for every 4WD enthusiast, is the first and highest of more than 1100 dunes in the Simpson Desert. In season, the wildflowers form a spectacular display on the red desert sand.

The Simpson Desert is undoubtedly Australia’s most loved desert, and large numbers of people each year accept the challenge of crossing the Simpson. The national park is easily accessible by 4WD from Birdsville.

Eyre Creek is a popular day trip and also a nice camping area. An overnight trip to Poeppel’s Corner (where Northern Territory, South Australia and Queensland meet) is an interesting experience.

The Simpson Desert National Park office is located in Birdsville and is a great place to visit for history and dreamtime stories, along with travelling tips and requirements. Phone (07) 4645 3272.

While in the shire, take the chance to see Betoota, the ghost town on the gibber plain. The town comes alive just twice a year. The first weekend after Easter is a fun-packed couple of days at the gymkhana. On the third Saturday in September, horse racing at Betoota Track is the go. In days gone by, Betoota was a Cobb and Co changing station and also a customs post. Brown’s Creek is a popular camping area near Betoota Hotel. Deon’s Lookout is a memorial to one of this country’s sons, with peaceful views of the land he loved.